4/12/2009

#3 Three Churches in Venice


So here it goes: despite that it is congested with tourists with maps in their hands and that disoriented expression on their face, the charm of Venice cannot be denied. The allure of its aquatic nature rising out of geological impossibility and its exotic orientalism is simply timeless and irresistible. One can truly say that Venice is one of the most unique cities in the world in many senses.
We stayed for five days in Venice and spent a great deal of time exploring different neighborhoods on foot. We tried to see Venice from close and afar. To see it close up, we chose a hotel 5 mins away from the Piazza San Marco with a view of San Giorgio Maggiore across the lagoon so that we could be in the midst of all the colors and sounds of the city. We got lost plenty of times in the labyrinth-like lanes, looking for a hidden church but found us stranded on a dead end by the canal. We later climbed the Campanile of San Giogiore Maggiore so that we could see the whole city from above across the lagoon; and a two-hour boat ride away, we visited the outlying islands surrounding Venice, including the glass-blowing Murano, the lace-weaving Burano and the austere-looking Torcello so that we could appreciate the situation of Venice from a larger marine map.
There have been so many things said about Venice, and one has to go there to really know the city and make a judgment oneself.
Our favorite things among many are the three churches in Venice that somehow provide different perspectives of the city, both its appearance and its history.
The first is Basilica di San Marco. Having seen many churches around the world, San Marco is definitely one of the most stunning. It is highly unique because it blends in many different styles and made it completely Venetian. One can clearly see the Romanesque, Byzantine, Arabic and Far East influences because of the extensive trading Venice had in the medieval time. Built throughout many centuries after the original was destroyed by fire in the 9th century, all ships returning from aboard were ordered by law to bring a gift to decorate San Marco. The splendid mosaic work and lavish carvings is the best testimony to the wealth once the city once possessed. One evening on our way back to the hotel, we walked by the church with the backdrop of a splendid sunset staining the lagoon and a full moon climbing the slope of the dome. The color instantly called to mind a painting by Monet. That sort of light and shadow, that sort of visual ambiguity. The magic of Venice was at full play at that moment.
The second church is San Giogio Maggiore, the one across the lagoon that we could see from our patio. The tower offers the best view of the city. We could truly appreciate its setting from that vantage point. The city indeed appeared floating on the water, nearly impossibly. It was a fine day so we were able to see all the way the Alps on the north with their snow-capped peaks. It was a breathtaking view.
The third church is Santa Maria dell'Assunta, located on Torcello, one of the outlying islands two hours away from Venice by boat. It is the oldest building on the lagoon and in our opinion, the most beautiful. Torcello used to be a glorious island in Byzantine time with over 20,000 residents until Venice eclipsed its fame, but nowadays, it is nearly wild with tall grasses and silted canals. The cathedral was founded in 639AD. Compared to San Marco, its beauty is not splendid but austere. The setting is completely rural, in the middle of no where really. The brick and tile exterior is weathered. The interior is airy with a heavenly feeling. The columns and walls remains bare so they provide a perfect background to show off the most stunning Mosaic works in the Apse and Doomsday, some of which dates back to 11 century.
The church has sat among on this nearly deserted island for almost 1400 years in a semi-abandoned state, witnessing the rise and fall of the power, all ebbs and flows of history. That thought itself is enough to fill anyone with awe and introspection.

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